After several relocations the head office is now located in genevaacacias. The full story the polerouter was designed in 1954 by a 24yearold named gerald genta, the very same. The dial of the polerouter sub is almost in mint condition and has a date window at 3 oclock. This example is fitted with the original bumperstyle movement, before universal geneve introduced the caliber 215 with a microrotor. The steel cased watch has the universal calibre 215 movement, this automatic winding movement has a microrotor, this means the eccentric weight is on the same plain as the rest of the watch mechanism, which in. Clock in very good condition despite its antiquity. Jul 08, 2017 before you buy a watch, consider this. Being from the beginning of the polerouter sub production, the present watch is a. Universal geneve polerouter montreal watch repair watchtyme. Universal geneve polerouter all prices for universal geneve. Universal were the first company to produce a wristworn chronograph in 1917 when the notion of a timepiece worn on a wrist was still a novelty amongst gentleman of character. Wts wtt universal geneve polerouter 1950s automatic.
Discover a large selection of universal geneve watches on chrono24 the worldwide marketplace for luxury watches. Why this watch matters an early design from the gerald genta, the polerouter proved to be an instant favorite and remained in production over the next 15 years. Gerald genta, the best watch designer ever designed the universal polerouter. The full story the polerouter, originally designed by gerald genta in 1954, comes in a variety of dial colors and metals. Luckily for collectors, you can still find good quality examples for 1,000 2,000 euros. Universal geneve polerouter chocolate dial circa 1955. This article deals with the initial calibre 8ss polarouter, which was the forerunner of many models of polerouter watches. In the world of the universal geneve polerouter there is one variation that all collectors have a particular affinity for. Vintage universal geneve polerouter date 18k solid gold watch with micro rotor.
That watch featured a faceted case, slender lugs, a simple dial, and the novel microtor movement. Shortly after the inauguration of the new factory in geneva in 1954, the model polarouter with a cal. Vintage universal geneve polerouter sub 86910901 sold on. It has an integral original stainless steel link gay freres ug stamped bracelet with a folding deployment clasp, and an acrylic crystal. Micro rotors are nothing new, but have traditionally stayed far away from reasonably priced watches. The microrotor allowed for a much slimmer case design than other automatic calibres of the. It was considered on par with similar models from the likes of rolex and omega.
Universal geneve polerouter micro rotor 2182 silver dial. Sep 01, 2019 universal geneve collaborated with sas, and the polarouter watch was developed in this period, some models of which were certified as chronometers. View this item and discover similar for sale at 1stdibs this is a rare stainless steel universal geneve polerouter sub automatic wristwatch, circa 1960s, with an asymmetric case, screw back, a signed screwdown. Any suggestions as to year i can send pictures if needed. Find great deals on ebay for universal polerouter and universal geneve polerouter. I have always been a fan of universal geneve watches. The man behind the ap royal oak, the patek philippe nautilus and the iwc ingenieur, genta changed the watch industry with his luxury stainless steel sports watches.
Apr 10, 2015 on board the flight were the prime ministers of denmark, sweden and norway as well as a group of prominent journalists, and there were reported crowds of over 10,000 people to witness the planes departure. I find the look of their watches as really clean and elegant. Gerald genta is a name all collectors know but few outside the collectors circle do. The watch is in very good condition over all, with some light signs of wear visible. Universal geneve microtor all prices for universal geneve. This is a mint example of an mk1 first execution ug polerouter sub with an asymmetrical case. The minute hand is starting to show wear with a slight crack in the center. This dress piece, a universal geneve polerouter from the late 1960s, sports more than just killer looks.
A flaw in the manufacturing process resulted in the occasional fading of the dial to a shade of brown, described as tropical dial or chocolate. However i went on to polerouter collection, and discovered that there is a slight difference to the model that is being offered. Universal polerouter microtor wristchronology vintage ure. It was at this time the models name was changed to polerouter. Gerald genta has a horogloical legacy wider than any other designer in history, but it was the polerouter for universal geneve that put him on the map at the ripe age of 23 years old. Any thoughts on the universal geneve polerouter date. The full story the polerouter, originally designed by gerald genta in 1954, comes in a variety of. The polerouter models, especially the highlysought after polerouter sub, represent the time before the universal geneve brand headed into a more modern direction. The only upgrades from 215218 to 6869 are in the microrotor and the winding mechanism nothing that effects time keeping in a major way. But before he could pioneer haute horology, he had cut his teeth on a more approachable timepiece. Universal geneve watches all prices for universal geneve. A great looking and desirable early vintage universal geneve pole router circa 1955 with chocolate turned black dial.
Important to the movement was its use of a micro rotor used to automatically wind the movement universal geneve calls it the microtor. Universal geneve bumper polarouter a complete collectors. Vintage universal geneve polerouter date 18k solid gold watch with micro rotor 2182, fitted with a date indication, was used in the polerouter polerouter date. Universal geneve microtor ug 101 is everymans micro rotor. Universal geneve polerouter, by gerald genta lug2lug duration. Jonatan and patricia dropped off these two universal geneve watches a couple weeks ago. Powered by caliber 215 self winding movement with micro rotor and sweep seconds. Why this watch matters originally designed by gerald genta, the polerouter is one of the most underrated vintage watches produced by universal geneve. It was introduced by universal geneve in 1948, first as cal. Posted in rwatchexchange by usoycowboy 123 points and 11 comments. The movement used in the early polarouterand poleroutermodels was the caliber 8 ss. The example featured is a polerouter sub which is powered by the calibre 169 movement with date and was introduced in 1962, the calibre 69 was identical apart from having no date complication. Universal geneve polerouter microrotor movement youtube.
The polerouter sub is one of the compressor watches belonging to the family of the legendary divers as the longines, iwc ref. K18pg pole router date custom universal geneva watch mzmr. Apr 15, 2016 universal geneve polerouter microtor cal. The watch is in excellent condition, featuring a spotless dial, and unpolished case. Ive been on the hunt for the polerouter by gerald genta, and i was wondering if you guys can help me figure out this problem.
The polerouter was produced in 1954 by universal geneve in partnership with scandinavian airline system sas by a then 24yearold gerald genta yes, that one. There were many classic watches released by universal geneve, however i shall focus on just three. These microrotor movements were quite technically advanced. Caseback shows wear to ug logo, crown is unsigned, case has been polished in its history. Powered by bumper automatic chronometer rated universal geneva 8s bumper automatic movement with sweep seconds.
Etsy is the home to thousands of handmade, vintage, and oneofakind products and gifts related to your search. Universal geneve polerouter all prices for universal. Apr 07, 2015 universal were the first company to produce a wristworn chronograph in 1917 when the notion of a timepiece worn on a wrist was still a novelty amongst gentleman of character. The universal geneve polerouter sub mk2 offered here is in a very good overall condition. This is a universal geneve polerouter made around 1964.
Being from the beginning of the polerouter sub production, the present watch is a rare opportunity for the collector of fine tool watches. View this item and discover similar for sale at 1stdibs this is a rare stainless steel universal geneve polerouter sub automatic wristwatch, circa 1960s, with an. No matter what youre looking for or where you are in the world, our global marketplace of sellers can help you find unique and affordable options. Featuring 37mm diameter case with screw down caseback, heavy extended and contoured lugs, acrylic crystal, and beautiful condition original champagne dial with printed cross hairs pattern, outer sloped mirror champagne finish with textured hour indexes. Universal geneve developed the automatic polerouter to be more resistant to the strong magnetic fields at the north and south poles. Universal geneve polerouter date calibre 69 microrotor. Relogio universal geneve polerouter micro rotor cal.
Discover a large selection of universal geneve polerouter watches on chrono24 the worldwide marketplace for luxury watches. Long sought after by collectors, read here my article about tropical dials here. In 1955, universal geneve equipped the polerouter with their new 215 micro rotor movement, one of the first of its kind the other being. The dial, case, crown, and movement are all signed universal geneve. The story of the watchs fabled designer intersects with a unique technological history, making for a timepiece that is as sought after as it is enjoyable to wear. The dial is especially beautiful due the stylish arabic numerals 3, 6, and 12 printed on a white trapezoidal background. The steel cased watch has the universal calibre 215 movement, this automatic winding movement has a microrotor, this means the eccentric weight is on the same plain as the rest of the watch mechanism, which in turns makes the watch movement thinner overall. As mentioned, the universal geneve polerouter jet states microtor on the dial and the meaning of this is an automatic with a micro rotor. Universal geneve polerouter geneve microrotor steel mens. In 1955, universal geneve equipped the polerouter with their new 215 microrotor movement, one of the first of its kind the other being. The polerouter was gentas first watch hit, penned by the young swiss designer at the age of 23. Is the micro rotor a completely reliable auto wind or does one need to give.
Oct, 2016 the polerouter models, especially the highlysought after polerouter sub, represent the time before the universal geneve brand headed into a more modern direction. Old school universal geneve polerouter monochrome watches. Universal geneve collaborated with sas, and the polarouter watch was developed in this period, some models of which were certified as chronometers. Universal geneve stainless steel polerouter sub wristwatch at. Mens mechanical hand wind watch rose gold silver 35 mm. I dont own one personally, but from what i hear, the keyless works on the 69 is a bit more finicky, at least when it concerns the sub and super references. The universal geneve polerouter is one such example. Custom display back showing the vintage 2189 microrotor movement.
Universal geneve stainless steel polerouter sub wristwatch. Universal geneve had created an inhouse automatic movement utilizing a micro rotor or microtor for their polerouter line, which was designed by gerald genta and had become a classic dress watch for many years. Universal geneve introduced the polerouter or polarouter as the model was then called to mark this auspicious occasion. Universal geneve was founded in 1894 and until less than haft a century ago the company was one of the most respected highend watch brands the world had ever seen. Analogshift universal geneve polerouter gold plate.
Nov 26, 2012 i have a universal geneve 14k watch with the serial number 35967 stamped on back the number doesnt match up to any list of numbers and years of manufacture i can find. Universal geneve microtor ug 101 is everymans micro. More about universal geneve vintage polerouter sub ss circa 1960s. This movement was short lived because in spring 1955 universal geneve replaced it for caliber 215, universals famous micro rotor movement, and with this universal geneve also changed the name into polerouter. L ast year at baselworld universal geneve presented its cabriolet watch with the new ug 101 movement. This example features an awesome silvered dial and automatic movement. After universal geneve settled a patent dispute regarding the microrotor.
Dial features applied ug plaque, and signed universal geneve polerouter and automatic microrotor and swiss. And it is easy to understand why, between the bombe lugs and the inner silvered minutetrack, this watch is pretty easy on the eye. I have a universal geneve 14k watch with the serial number 35967 stamped on back the number doesnt match up to any list of numbers and years of manufacture i can find. Universal geneve serial numbers polerouter obsession. Steel universal geneve polerouter ns vintage wristwatch. Universal geneve polerouter most of us, even the most diehard collectors, know only one watch designer by name.
Last year at baselworld universal geneve presented its cabriolet watch with the new ug 101 movement. Steel universal geneve polerouter ns vintage wristwatch, circa 1964 a stylish automatic centre seconds wristwatch with date and crosshair dial the polerouter series is one of universals most famous model lines. Universal geneve had created an inhouse automatic movement utilizing a micro rotor or microtor for their polerouter line, which was designed by gerald genta and had become a. Sep 25, 2015 universal geneve polerouter microroter super minty overhaul her we are checking our balance and mainspring assembly rebuild portion. Designed by the legendary gerald genta in the early 1950s, the polerouter quickly became a big success. Discover a large selection of universal geneve microtor watches on chrono24 the worldwide marketplace for luxury watches. Movement is a 2182 with micrometric adjustment of the regulator. One of my universal cal 215 occasionally stops when i put it down. The dial can be a challenge to read in direct sunlight, so this is strictly an evening watch. Rare 18k solid gold microtor 2182 mens universal geneve. The actual collection includes several watches in a very attractive retrodesign with reference to some of the most fascinating models of the company history.